[Hey everyone (at least I assume more than one person reads this...). Sorry its been so long. I guess as I settle in a routine there becomes less and less stuff that's worth reporting. I'll try to update more though. Anyway...]
Japan is balls deep in festivals. There’s a festival (certainly) every weekend, and practically every day – and that’s just in Yamanashi. I shutter to think of the number of festivals in all of Japan. So, two weekends ago I went to a festival in Nirasaki which is about an hour north of me. One of my friends who lives up there was invited by his town to participate in it. The festival consisted of a bunch of different performance groups marching around the town, occasionally stopping to do a performance. For example, there were student marching bands (in incredibly silly outfits), traditional Japanese dance groups, and a traditional royal procession (complete with people in Samurai costumes, and other Edo period attire). Dave was part of the later group. He was a banner-bearer in the procession – complete with armor, a big black circular hat, and a giant 15-foot banner.
It turns out, that same day, there was another festival right near my house. I would have gone, but no one bothered to mention its existence to me. For that festival (so I’ve heard), the men get very drunk (par for the course for festivals) and walk around carrying a mikoshi (a large shrine resting on two long poles). The mikoshi is really heavy, and everyone who was involved in carrying it (about four at a time) complained of sore, bruised shoulders for a couple days following the event. The carriers of the mikoshi also pretend that there’s a spirit inside the shrine that is coming to life (or something), so they carry it erratically, swaying from side to side. It doesn’t help things that many of the carriers are drunk, and naturally stagger. Not surprisingly, I heard that a bystander was clocked in the head and had to be taken to the hospital.
Last Friday night I went to another festival – this one, in Minobu. It’s a pretty big deal, and many of the residence from neighboring towns come to see it. The festival takes place at Minobu-san (the mountain in Minobu with a big elaborate temple at the top). Groups, dressed in matching outfits and armed with drums, march up the moutain (its not very steep – and the marching takes place on a street lined with shops that leads to the foot of the temple). When a group reaches a participating shop (which is practically all of them) they put on a little performance. The drummers play one of two simple songs, while these guys with lantern-like things atop long poles perform a dance. If the shop owners like the performance (which they invariably do), they give the group a bottle of sake.
Kae invited me to come with her. Her father was leading a group that consisted of her family and a bunch of her neighbors (maybe 20 people in all). They put me in a happi (a robe type thing), gave me a drum, taught me the beats, and we walked up the mountain. Not surprisingly, a lot of alcohol is involved in this event. The people in my group kept handing me cans of beer, flasks of whiskey, and juice-boxes (or cups) of sake. I didn’t have one, but most people in the group were wearing alcohol pouches, so they could stow away their drinks while banging on their drums. Partway up the mountain, some other JETs stopped by and joined in. It was a pretty great festival.
[I don’t really have any pictures of the Minobu festival, as I had a drum in one hand and a drumstick in the other. Some other people managed to take some pictures, so I’ll try to dig some of those up.]